Organic Gardening In The 21st Century

Over the course of the past decade, a significant number of men and women from different parts of the world have taken up gardening. In this regard, these people have found themselves interested both in creating magnificent flower gardens as well as in cultivating thriving vegetable gardens.

A majority of gardeners still rely on what might be considered “mainstream methods” when it comes to the care and maintenance of either their flower or vegetable gardens. In other words, these gardeners tend to rely upon various commercially availabable chemical treatments and products to care for their gardens. Various types of garden-related chemicals — from pesticides to fertilizers — are available readily at garden supply shops and discount retail stores. More often than not, these basic products can be obtained for a fairly reasonable cost.

As a person becomes more involved in the care and maintenance of his or her garden, such an individual tends to become more conscious and aware of how the materials he or she utilizes to tend a garden space actually effects the environment and the plants being grown (particularly vegetables). Consequently, many experienced gardeners (and, in reality, an ever growing number of novices) have turned to organic gardening practices.

Organic gardening practices actually have been around and utilized by people since certain ancient tribes gave up hunting and gathering and settled down to grow their own crops and to maintain their own domesticated animals. In their most basic form, organic gardening practices consists of the use of naturally occuring materials (organic materials) in the care and treatment of a garden patch — vegetable or floral. No man made chemicals or any type are utilized in true organic gardening regimens.

For example, when it comes to providing nutrients for an organic gardening, two resources normally are relied upon: compost and manure. Likewise, when it comes to the issue of pest control, natural steps are taken to rid a garden of offensive bugs and insects. In this regard, benign insects that do not damage plants but who prey upon bugs that harm foilage are placed in a garden or patch to deal with a harmful infestation problem or situation.

In the final analysis, people who espouse organic gardening practices and techniques maintain that the goal or such natural programs is to nourish and protect the soil well into the future rather than providing a quick, seasonal fix for one planting period. Through organic gardening, soil and water contamination is reduced significantly. Additionally, when it comes to the production of vegetables, the food generated from an organic garden is free of harmful chemicals and deemed to be far healthier for human consumption.

How To Set Up A Mittleider Method Soil-bed Garden

First off, you MUST have direct sunlight all day long for vegetables to thrive. Therefore, use only the space that has no shade. And don’t worry if it seems small! You’ll grow twice the food in one fourth the space others are using, so just do it right in the space you have. And actually, starting small is a good idea anyway! It’s easier, more fun, and won’t wear you out!

Level ground, or something with a slight Southern slope is best, in order to catch the sun’s strongest rays, and to avoid rapid water run-off that will wash out your soil, seeds, and seedlings.

Begin by clearing your ground of EVERYTHING! No weeds, rocks, or anything else is allowed. “Cleanliness is next to godliness” certainly applies here, and you surely want your garden to be a thing of beauty, as well as being productive!

Measure and stake the perimeter of your garden. This gives you an important starting point for figuring out how many soil-beds you can have, and then placing them properly. Let’s use 25′ X 35′ as an example of what your garden area might be.

It doesn’t really matter what direction your beds face, so far as sun exposure is concerned. What does matter, though, is that the beds be level, and that you plant taller plants to the North or East of shorter plants. This is to assure that taller plants don’t shade shorter plants, and rob them of essential sunlight. So, align your beds to maximize those factors as much as possible.

I’ll assume we are able to run the beds lengthwise along the 35′ dimension. Your soil-beds should be 18″ wide and any length you choose. When you become experienced in this method of growing, and want to specialize in growing certain crops all the time, you may want to begin using 4′-wide beds, but let’s stick to the best family garden layout for now.

The ideal size for aisles is 3.5′, and since we have 25′ width in our example garden, this will give us 5 – 18″ beds with 3 ‘ aisles. If you have only 23′ you could get by with aisles a little narrower. But don’t squeeze those aisles! You will be growing plants that need all of that space, and reducing the aisle space only leads to problems of not enough light and air for your growing plants!

We’ll make our beds 30′ long. This leaves us 2.5′ on each end of the garden for walking, and 30′ is a good length, because it makes caring for the garden easy. More about that later.

Using 18″-long stakes, stake your 5 – 18″ X 30’ beds, with 4 stakes per bed.

Apply 32 ounces of the Mittleider Pre-Plant Mix, and 16 ounces of Weekly Feed Mix to the soil under your strings. This amounts to about 1 ounce and half ounce per running foot of those VERY important natural mineral nutrients. Dig or till the soil of your soil-bed to a depth of at least 8″.

Then, using nylon string, tie strings between the stakes, to outline your soil-beds.

Begin making raised, ridged beds by pulling about 2+ inches of dirt from the aisles into the 18″-wide bed area under your strings. Smooth and level that dirt, and then check the level of your bed area. It must be level to make watering easy and efficient, so don’t ignore this step! Move dirt from the high spots in your bed to the low spots, until your bed is no more than one inch higher at the water-source end than the other end.

Make 4″-high ridges all around your bed by pulling soil from the center of the bed to just beneath the strings. When you’re finished you should have a planting area that is about 12″ wide and between 1 and 2″ above the level of the aisles, with 4″ ridges, the top of which are 18″ apart. Re-check the level of your planting area, and move soil as necessary to keep the bed level from end to end.

Your Mittleider “Best of Organic” garden is now ready to plant!

What Is The Hydroponics Gardening And How Does It Work

The history of hydroponics is quite interesting as the initial idea was first formulated by Woodward way back in 1699. The theory remained to its books until the 1840’s from which point some Botanists tried to develop the basic system.

The biggest advantage of hydroponics is that it requires little or no land space as does regular farming. Hydroponics water is usually re-circulated saving energy and nutrients needed by the system. This ensures that energy and efficiency is optimum.

Although the history of hydroponics goes back in centuries, hydroponics was known to the wider world during the 70s and 80s. Since the world economy started constant warnings about food crisis around the world, more studies were directed towards producing more crops out of less space and cost. As solutions, there have been number of concepts introduced and hydroponics was chosen as one of the best solution to be implemented commercially.

The arrangements of stacks and the layout of the hydroponics greenhouse play key roles when it comes to reducing the cost. When more vertical stacks are used, the space requirement lowers. This produces the more amount of crop per square meter. When it comes to layouts, the design should adhere to the basic principles of physics.

First of all, the layout should support maximum sunlight intake, so the need of artificial lights can be reduced. Next, the layout should support proper liquid flow, where water based solution is used for giving the required nutrition to the plants. If the flow is designed for the maximum efficiency, the liquid solution can be reused a number of times before it expires.

In hydroponics greenhouses, lighting plays a major role. The plants should be supported with adequate amount of lighting for proper growth of crops. In addition to the sunlight, there should be a mechanism for artificial lighting. Usually, glow lights are used for lighting hydroponics greenhouses artificially. These glow lights are available in different sizes and types. If you have a specific or personalized hydroponics greenhouse, then you can get the lights customized to your requirements as well.

Once the routine of a hydroponics greenhouse is automated, there is no requirement for human intervention. Usually, almost all the commercial hydroponics greenhouses are fully automated, making sure the human labor is only required for supervision purposes. Although the capital investment is quite high for automating a greenhouse, it has a high ROI (Return on Investment) during the years to come.

How To Fail At Csa Market Gardening

CSA market gardening is a great way to connect farmers and consumers. The farmer receives a good income and guaranteed cashflow, and the consumer gets a steady supply of fresh, local food. But your CSA can fail if you don’t avoid the following mistakes.

CSA market gardening mistake 1: Marketing. Community Supported Agriculture programs typically experience high turnover of customers, especially in the early years. You may lose as many as 40% of your customers each year. This means you need to be continuously marketing to find new customers to replace the losses, and even more if you expect to grow.

Marketing your garden doesn’t have to be difficult or expensive; the first thing to invest in is some good business cards. Cards are a cheap way to promote your market garden. You can print both sides of the card, perhaps using the back of the card as a coupon for new customers.

Mail-out flyers are also an effective marketing tool. Flyers let you target a particular geographic area, and a 1-page 2-sided flyer gives you lots of room to get your message across.

You should also consider creating a website for your market garden; having a web presence is expected of businesses these days. And a well-designed, keyword-focused, content-driven website is your marketing magic weapon, bringing in customers even while you sleep.

CSA market gardening mistake 2: Not growing enough produce. When customers join your CSA, they often pay you in advance for the season. You have to make sure you deliver great value for that payment. This starts with planning.

Since you know how many customers you have, you can plan your garden to make sure you have ample produce for everyone. For example, if you have 50 customers who each want one head of lettuce each week, you need to be able to harvest at least 50 heads. However, not all lettuce seeds germinate. And not all plants successfully grow to produce a harvestable crop. You can lose plants to insects, or disease, or bad weather. So to make sure you will have sufficient produce available, you need to build in a safety factor; that is, plant more than you think you will need. So to get 50 harvestable head of lettuce, you might start by planting 75 seeds; this will give you some allowance for losses.

And you have to take all reasonable means to protect your crop from the perils mentioned above. You need protection against insects, disease, flooding, predatory animals, drought, and storms. It does you no good to grow beautiful vegetables if you lose them before harvest.

CSA market gardening mistake 3: Not growing enough variety. Successful CSA’s grow lots of vegetables, and a large variety of vegetables. There are some good reasons for this: first, your customers will appreciate receiving something different in their delivery boxes each week. The more types of vegetables you grow, the more people you will appeal to.

The second reason to grow a large variety is for security of production. To give an extreme example, if you grew only two vegetables, and you lose one, your garden has lost 50%. On the other hand, if you grow 20 different vegetables and you lose one, you garden is still at 95%.

And finally, you need to grow a large variety of crops to stretch out your season. Different vegetables, and even different types of the same vegetable, mature at different times. The more you grow, the longer your potential season.

CSA market gardening can bring a great benefit to both farmers and consumers, if you avoid these mistakes.

Miniature Gardening All About Its Types

Miniature gardens and fairy gardens represent a scenic picture comprised of accessories, furniture, structures, gnomes, etc., making it a beautiful space in your home. If you are a beginner and want to know more about miniature gardening and its types then read the article.

Types of miniature gardens

Indoor miniature gardens: This type of garden has plants that can survive extreme conditions such as low light and indoor conditions.

Terrarium: Terrarium is a miniature plant or garden enclosed in glass container. It can tolerate low light and high humidity.

Pots and containers: For indoor miniature gardens, pots and containers with drainage holes help to drain out excess water from the bottom.

Place saucers or plates underneath the pot to protect surfaces from excess water draining from the container and to keep the surroundings clean.

Outdoor miniature gardens: For outdoor miniature gardens, it is important to consider the weather zones while planting in any climate.

Accessories made of terra cotta, wood, glass, etc., can be used in outdoor miniature gardens. Based on the materials the accessories are made of, remove the accessories from the landscape during adverse weather conditions to protect them and make sure to store them properly so that their life can be prolonged and can be used in the future.

Landscapes: Miniature landscapes are a congregation of soil, plants and imaginative theme that are put together for creating a scene.

For example, in case of miniature pond landscape ensure to keep it in a sunny location outdoors.

Pots and containers: Pots or containers used for outdoor miniature gardens should have proper drainage system. Using containers made of clay which are usually porous helps in leaking out excess water.

Requirements to develop indoor and outdoor miniature gardens

Plants: The one thing that differentiates indoor miniature garden from outdoor miniature garden is the type of plants that survive in varied conditions.

Indoor miniature plants grow well in indoor conditions like low sunlight, etc., whereas outdoor miniature plants require heat and more sunlight.

Plants that can survive in dry conditions can be used in indoor miniature gardens.

Location: Location of the garden determines the life and growth of the plants. Based on the plants you choose for indoor or outdoor miniature gardens choose a location with adequate temperature and light.

Pots and containers: Various containers made of materials like metal, glass, wood and plastic that come up different colors, sizes, shapes and styles can be used for indoor and outdoor gardens.

Accessories: Select the right accessories by keeping the theme of the garden in mind. Ensure that the accessories used in outdoor gardens should be resistant to extreme weather conditions, corrosion and rust.

Maintenance for the survival of miniature gardens: Maintaining the miniature garden is important for its survival. Following are a few maintenance tips for indoor and outdoor miniature gardens:

Check the plants frequently for pest invasions.

Potting soil with a blend of perlite, compost and other essential nutrients is preferred for containers to feed plants.

Under watering, over watering or using too much of a fertilizer is not good for miniature plants.

Use potting soil and drill holes into the bottom of the container for proper draining system and to keep your plants healthy.

Regardless of the type of miniature garden (indoor or outdoor) give them the care they deserve to grow.

Azalea Hybrid Bushes And Native American Fiery (flame) Azaleas

Buying the best azalea shrub offers a gardener many choices for various landscapes. The Southern indica azalea hybrids are the most popular flowering shrubs for warm climates that includes the Formosa azaleas of white, pink, red, purple, magenta, violet, and lavender. Other outstanding Formosa azaleas are Duc DeRohan, Dutchess of Cypress, G.G. Gerbing, George L. Tabor, Madonna White, and South.

Kurume azaleas are evergreen azaleas with considerable cold hardiness and were introduced into the United States around 1915 from Japan. Japan has a climate much like mid-Atlantic and Southern States, and Kurume azalea plants thrive in these similar climates. Kurume azalea shrubs grow small waxy leaves and are considered to be dwarf azalea plants, growing 4 feet tall, but rarely some cultivars reach 6 feet in height. The flowers of Kurume azaleas bloom in colors of pink, purple, white, red, orange, and lavender, and some produce double flowers (double rows of petals). Coral bells is important as a pink azalea to plant underneath windows, and the intense flowering habit is also notable in the pink ruffles azalea and the red ruffles highlights any garden landscape planting. Snow is a pure white Kurume flowering azalea cultivar.

Satsuki azalea plants were developed in Japan as a bonsai specimen (dwarf), however, some cultivars can grow 6 feet tall. The flowers can exceed 5 inches, the size of a coffeecup saucer, and the late blooming characteristic of Satsuka azaleas offers the landscape gardener a flower that blooms after May 15 and continues flowering through June.

Compact azaleas are generally preferred for small gardens like the Satsuki hybrid cultivars that includes the Gumpo pink, Gumpo white, Gumpo red, Higasa rose-pink, and Wakebishu dark pink azalea. Satsuki azalea shrubs will flower abundantly.

The USDA began a hybridization program of azalea shrubs at Glenn Dale, Maryland to introduce landscape, cold hardy plants of flowering azalea cultivars that would extend the season for azalea bloom and offer Northern landscape gardeners new colorful cultivars of flowering azaleas. Many of these Glenn Dale azalea shrubs grow flowers similar to the Formosa hybrids. Glenn Dale azaleas bloom with the diversity of Japanese hybrids. Glenn Dale flowering azalea cultivars introduced by the USDA hybridizers have produced over 400 kinds of azalea shrubs, many available to buy through an internet nursery site. Two sensational Glenn Dale azalea hybrids are the salmon-pink Fashion azalea. The Fashion azalea can grow 6 feet tall and is covered with medium sized flowers. A pure white azalea, the H.H. Hume, is an excellent Glenn Dale azalea shrub that blooms in late April. Many Glenn Dale azalea landscape shrubs flower in May and June.

Not all azalea shrubs are evergreen, but American native azalea shrubs drop the leaves during winter and are called deciduous azaleas. In the South, these native azaleas are called fragrant bush honeysuckle or the Florida azalea (Rhododendrun austrinum) with colors of yellow, red, pink, white, yellow-orange, purple, and bicolor light up the forests or garden landscape when domesticated. The wild bush honeysuckle (Rhododendrun austrinum) is an early blooming native azalea shrub, with fragrant flowers appearing before the leaves.

Just How Do You Grow An Elm Bonsai

Elm Bonsai is a amazing tiny tree, and novices in bonsai development can nurture this due to the fact it can adapt effortlessly. It could be developed in varied soil mixtures and also different sun conditions. You can find various species that belong to elm yet you’ll find species commonly brought up as bonsai. Allow me to share a few of the widespread species that may be cultivated as elm bonsai:

1) Scotch Elm is also referred to as Wych Elm or perhaps Witch Elm, which has a botanical name of Ulmus glabra. It’s typically found in Europe and also western Asia.

2) Rock Elm also is named as cork elm having a botanical name of Ulmus thomasii. Rock elm is regularly found in Eastern part of United States.

3) Swamp Elm is usually known as as American Elm, White Elm, or perhaps Water Elm. It has a botanical name of Ulmus americana. Swamp elm is a hardy tree that’s frequently noticed on the rocky mountains of North America, and probably the most prevalent elm variety in Usa. It can be easily infected with Dutch elm disease.

4) Red Elm which can be also called Slippery Elm or even Indian Elm. It has a botanical name of Ulmus rubra. Red elm is typically identified in the Eastern United states of america and various parts of Canada.

5) English Elm can be named as Ulmus procera. It really is a local tree from England to central as well as south Europe.

6) Chinese Elm is also referred to as Ulmus parvifolia. It truly is one of the best varieties of elm since it can easily accommodate different growth conditions. Chinese elm is really a indigenous tree to China, Taiwan, and also Korea. This elm bonsai typically grows following a distributing broom style.

You’ll be able to raise an elm bonsai even if you’re simply a novice in bonsai propagation. You are able to flourish your elm bonsai indoors or outside your houses. Whenever you are preparing to grow and maintain it indoors, you need to simply position it on a properly lighted and also cool aspect of the home where the sun’s rays can shine through the windows. But you’ve got to put your elm bonsai outdoors from May until the fall months ends, as well as you have to let the leaves to drop off naturally prior to you carry it inside your property. Even so, when you would like to grow up your elm bonsai outdoors, you just need to do not forget that they cannot take very cold winds. It may cause drying up of foliage and fine branches of the elm small tree, which can result in their death whenever you left it exposed for long periods.

With regard to indoor elm bonsai, you must not let the soil to obtain dry. Thus, you have to water it just before it runs dry due to the fact the soil must be well misted at all times. Yet you’ve got to ensure that you usually do not water it an excessive amount of since it leads to root rotting. For outdoor elm bonsai, you might have to water whenever required. Yet you might have to discover the soil much more oftenly throughout summer and also spring season.

Feeding your elm bonsai is quite essential so that you are able to give vital nutritional requirements that may help the increase and also advancement of your small tree. For indoor elm bonsai, you need to give fertilizer every week in the course of the summer season of spring and also summer time. Give fertilizer each and every month throughout winter period and you must in no way give fertilizer when you will find no foliage. For outdoor elm bonsai, you must fertilize throughout spring right after the buds have exposed. The fertilizer you ought to utilize need to include high quantities of nitrogen, as well as this need to be given each week for the first month, then every fourteen days till the late part of summer time period.

Epimedium with short flower spikes and large spider-type flowers

This article in the Epimedium series catalogs Epimedium species by their plant form and flower types in order to help you select the best plants for your site. There are too many Epimediums to list in a single article so check out the others in the series to see other categories such as white Epimediums or large Epimediums. The next group are evergreen epimediums that have large flowers in pink to white, but are borne on short flower stalks. Epimedium brachyrrhizum, first described from China in 1997 is similar to another species, Epimedium leptorrhizum (Zone 5-8) that has been known since 1938. Both have spreading rhizomes with Epimedium brachyrrhizum possessing a thicker rhizome, spreading considerably slower. For us E. leptorrhizum never exceeds 6″ in height, while E. brachyrrhizum typically reaches 1′ tall. Both evergreen species are topped in early spring with very short flower spikes of 8-12 flowers ranging from pink to lavender, and occasionally white. E. brachyrrhizum (Zone 5-8) is represented in the trade by two hard to find cultivars Epimedium ‘Elfin Magic’, and soon, the white flowered PDN selection Epimedium ‘Little Angels’. The foliage of E. brachyrrhizum turns a nice shade of lavender in the winter. Epimedium ogisui(1993) (Zone 6-9) is a similar spreading evergreen species with near horizontal spikes of large white flowers. The Chinese Epimedium epsteinii (Zone 5b-8), also named in 1997, is a similar evergreen species with short, but spreading rhizomes and short flowers spikes, sporting up to 12 large bicolored inflorescences of purple cups and spurs, backed by a white outer sepal. Plants in this group make superb groundcovers, often with attractive red mottled foliage. Some of the most showy epimediums are those with large flowers on long spikes. The evergreen Epimedium acuminatum (Zone 5-8) from limestone cliffs in the Southern Chinese provinces of Yunnan and Sichuan leads this list along with its hybrid, Epimedium x omeiense (acuminatum x fangii). E. x omeiense is fairly new to cultivation, first flowering in cultivation in 1982 (W. Stearn 2002). In our studies, the primary easily visible difference is that Epimedium acuminatum has smaller, narrower leaves and is shorter in stature, 12″ tall for E. acuminatum, compared to 24″ tall for E. x omeiense. E. acuminatum flowers with 18″ long arching spikes, each adorned with up to 50 large flowers composed of long dark purple spurs, highlighted by pale lavender inner sepals. The flowers are so large, the spikes can become quite heavy, so much that their tips nearly touch the ground. For this reason, I recommend both E. acuminatum and E. x omeiense be planted atop a berm, so the flowers can be better enjoyed. Both E. acuminatum and E. x omeiense are prized for their long-pointed and wonderfully mahogany mottled leaves. Compared to the tight clumping species, this is a reasonably good spreading species. Heronswood’s E. acuminatum ‘Ruby Star’ (white sepals, lavender spurs, and a purple cup), and Darrell Probst’s E. acuminatum ‘Night Mistress’ (pink spurs, purple spurs, and a purple cup) are the two easiest to find clones on the market. Mikinori Ogisu=s wild collected clone of E. x omeiense released as Epimedium ‘Stormcloud’, Dan Hinkley’s ‘Myriad Years’ (white sepals, light lavender spurs and a purple cup), and the Japanese ‘Akane’ Epimedium are the easiest to find in the market.

Install Chicken Wire Fencing

Nearly all producers know how to deploy chicken wire fence. chicken wire was made to aid contain chickens. This specific flexible wire kennel area features hexagonal opportunities and it is accessible in various assessments of wire width and size starting. Poultry wire is used for you to incorporate animals, have them to send and receive various forms associated with construction.

Though poultry wire (often known as chicken kennel area) is employed for numerous work, by far the most frequent task for this fabric is usually to shield chickens. chicken wire will serve 2 functions in connection with this: the idea retains flock contained also it keeps predators at bay. The following is utilizing chicken wire along with your chickens.
Chicken wire factors.
Chicken wire made from gal wire lasts over other kinds of wire. Capable using a 1 ” pit will probably be ample to maintain chickens in and many potential predators or innovators out there. Plastic material nylon uppers are not strong enough to deter a new established predator.

Buckling chicken wire. 1 ” galvanized steel the norm can provide a powerful maintain with regard to chicken wire wall once the fence is actually put in in opposition to a new solid wood area. 20-gauge galvanized wire enables you to interweave a pair of areas of poultry wire collectively. Chicken wire fencing posts have particular an eye that are utilized to hang the chicken wire on any time putting in fences. These kinds of tabs may be sealed on the fence after installment using a pair of pliers or a sort.

Creating a safe fence. Soon after determining the right peak for your poultry wire fencing, add another One foot. Just before adding fences, search a new trench around the bottom of the kennel area. As you set up the actual poultry wire, location any 12 ” chicken apron regarding wall underground degree. Following your kennel area is actually installed, hide the attire and tamp planet earth along well. The actual chicken wire apron will stop potential predators that try and drill down underneath the fence.

Oversees! For additional protection, think about adding a new coating of poultry wire outrageous of one’s fencing. The cover covering could be fixed towards the other fencing employing 20-gauge galvanized wire.

Ebb and flow VS Drip system

Do you really need to read an entire article to determine which of two very similar hydroponics systems are best for you? I think so, because each of them have some small particularities that can make a world of difference for you in the long run. Find out which one is better suited for you in this versus article between a hydroponics drip system and an ebb and flow.

Building and Installation Difficulty

Both types of systems work on pretty much the same principles and are quite easy to set up if you’re buying a ready-made kit that you just need to install. Although both systems are slightly harder to build from scratch in comparison to water culture, the ebb and flow has a slight edge, due to the fact that the drip component in the system bearing its name is harder to get working. So ebb and flow hydroponics systems win a point at this category.

Reliability

When I say reliability, I’m thinking of how often a particular system breaks down and how much risks does it take. Another aspect of reliability I will take into account is the damage these systems produce if they do indeed break downbecause it’s not the same thing if your hydroponic system breaks and floods your entire greenhouse, or if it breaks and spills a few drips on the floor. And I guess you already noticed where I’m going with this, namely that an ebb and flow system does a lot more damage if something breaks, thus it is less reliable than a hydroponics drip system.

However, there are certain ebb and flow products out there that come with an automatic water pump controller that spots when something goes wrong and cuts off the water pump so it doesn’t make mess. And honestly, if you’re serious about gardening, you shouldn’t be caught without such a protection system. Still, for making us take this extra measure, the ebb and flow system loses one point to the continuous drip.

Efficiency

Efficiency refers to how well and how fast plants will grow in a specific system as well as how much of the supplies you will use will go to waste. From the perspective of growing efficiency, both systems do fairly well, so none gets the extra edge (after all, they work on almost the same principles, so there shouldn’t be large variations in performance either). But when it comes to supplies efficiencythe ebb and flow hydroponics system will prove to be quite the waster. Because it constantly floods the plant tray then pulls back the excess water/nutrients in the nutrient container, the pH levels in here will be on a constant fluctuation. This will force you to change the solution more often, since an unstable pH can have some nasty effects on your plants. On the other hand, although a hydroponics drip system will still have this problem; it will have it at a much lower rate, which gives it the edge in efficiency over the ebb and flow. 2-1 for drip!

Power Consumption

The fact that the drip system uses a special pump header to control the flow of water doesn’t affect power consumption at all. So the power these two systems eat up should be similar. But obviously, the main power hungry component is the lighting system, so whatever lighting system your hydroponics kit comes with will determine its power consumption ratio. Since the systems themselves are on equal terms in this category, neither one gets any points, leaving the final score 2-1 for the hydroponics drip system!